Three days in Pune

Day one: Old city walk

Start at Shaniwar Wada, the 18th-century Peshwa palace. The fortification walls and main gate survive; the interior gardens give a sense of the original scale. Walk east to the Kasba Ganpati temple, one of the five Manache Ganpati that lead the Ganeshotsav procession. The area around the temple has narrow lanes with old wada houses. These houses, with their wooden balconies and courtyards, reflect the city's Maratha heritage. The lanes are busy with local life, and you will see vendors selling flowers, incense, and snacks. The walk from Shaniwar Wada to Kasba takes about ten minutes. Keep an eye on the traffic; the roads are narrow and shared with two-wheelers.

From Kasba, head south to the Pataleshwar caves, an 8th-century rock-cut temple to Shiva on Jangli Maharaj Road. The main hall has carved pillars and a lingam. The caves are cool even in hot weather. After the caves, walk to Parvati Hill. Climb the stone stairway to the temple complex at the top for a view over the city. The hill is a quiet spot, away from the street noise. The temples on the hill date from the Peshwa period and are still active. The view from the top takes in the old city, the river, and the hills to the west. The climb is moderate and takes about fifteen minutes. Carry water; there are few shaded spots on the way up.

• Shaniwar Wada opens from morning to evening; an entry fee applies.
• The Pataleshwar caves are free to enter and usually quiet.
• Parvati Hill's stairway is commonly said to have 103 steps.

Day one evening: Food streets

In the evening, explore the food streets near the old city. The area around Tulshibaug and the lanes off Laxmi Road have many stalls selling vada pav, misal pav, and bhel puri. Try a plate of misal pav, a spicy curry of sprouts topped with farsan and served with bread. The flavours range from mild to very hot. The stalls are busy with office-goers and families. The food is cooked fresh, and you can watch the preparation. The streets are lit with bright lights, and the aroma of spices fills the air. The prices are reasonable, and portions are generous. You can sample several items in one evening.

For a sweet finish, look for bakarwadi, a crisp snack from the region. Irani cafés in Camp serve bun maska and chai. The streets are crowded; expect to eat standing at some stalls. The food is fresh and made to order. Avoid the busiest hours between 8 and 9 pm if you prefer less noise. The food streets are also a good place to buy local sweets to take home. Bakarwadi is a popular choice, as it keeps well. The Irani cafés have a retro feel, with wooden tables and ceiling fans. They are a good place to rest your feet and watch the city go by.

• Misal pav is a local breakfast dish but is available all day.
• Bakarwadi is sold in many sweet shops; it keeps well for travel.
• Irani cafés serve chai and bun maska in the evening.

Day two: Aga Khan Palace

The second day begins at Aga Khan Palace, built in 1892. The palace is a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi, Kasturba Gandhi, and Mahadev Desai, who were imprisoned here from 1942 to 1944. Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai died in the palace; their samadhis are in the grounds. The museum inside displays photographs and personal items from Gandhi's life. The exhibits include letters, spinning wheels, and a replica of his room. The museum is well laid out and provides a clear account of the freedom movement. The palace is also a place of quiet reflection; the lawns are peaceful.

The palace grounds are large and well maintained. The architecture blends Italian arches with Indian details. Allow two to three hours for a thorough visit. The site is on a main road; traffic noise is audible but does not disturb the interior. A small café near the entrance sells snacks and drinks. The café is a good spot for a break before moving on. The palace is a popular spot for school groups, so it can be busy on weekdays. The staff are helpful and can answer questions about the exhibits. The samadhis in the garden are simple and moving.

Day two afternoon: Koregaon Park

After the palace, head to Koregaon Park, a leafy neighbourhood east of the centre. The area has wide footpaths, cafes, and shops. The Osho International Meditation Resort is here, though it is not open to casual visitors. The park along the Mula-Mutha river offers a walking path with benches and shade. The path is popular with joggers and walkers in the late afternoon. The river level varies with the season; in the monsoon it is full, while in summer it may be low. The trees along the path provide cover from the sun. You can sit on a bench and watch the birds.

Koregaon Park is also a good place for lunch. The area has many restaurants serving Indian and international food. The streets are quieter than the old city. You can walk from the palace to Koregaon Park in about 20 minutes. Alternatively, take a rickshaw from the palace gate. The rickshaw ride takes about five minutes and is inexpensive. The neighbourhood is safe and easy to navigate on foot. The shops sell clothing, handicrafts, and books. The cafes are good for a coffee or a light meal. The area has a relaxed, international feel.

• The riverfront path is about 2 km long, suitable for a stroll.
• Koregaon Park has several bookshops and art galleries.
• The area is popular with expats and students.

Day three: Fort at sunrise

On the third day, leave early for a fort near Pune. Sinhagad fort, about 35 km south-west, is a popular choice. The drive takes about an hour. The fort sits on a hill with a steep climb from the base. The sunrise view from the top shows the surrounding hills and the Pune skyline in the distance. The fort has a history linked to Tanaji Malusare's battle in 1670. The fort walls and gates are intact, and you can walk along them. The top is flat and has a few small temples and memorials. The air is cool in the early morning.

The climb takes 45 minutes to an hour at a steady pace. The path is rocky; wear sturdy shoes. There are stalls at the top selling tea and snacks. The fort is open from early morning. After the descent, you can visit the nearby Rajgad or Torna forts if time permits. Return to Pune by late morning. The descent is easier than the climb, but the path can be slippery in places. Carry water for the climb; there are no taps on the way. The view from the top is worth the effort. The fort is a popular weekend spot, so go on a weekday if possible.

Day three afternoon: Rest and depart

After the fort, return to the city for lunch and rest. The afternoon can be spent at a local market. The Camp area has shops selling leather goods, textiles, and souvenirs. The Mahatma Phule Mandai market sells fresh flowers and produce. The market is busy but gives a sense of local life. The market is housed in a colonial-era building with a clock tower. You can buy spices, dried fruits, and local snacks. The vendors are friendly and will help you choose. The market is a good place to pick up gifts for people back home.

If you have time, visit the Chaturshringi temple on the way to the airport or station. The temple is on a hill and offers a view of the city. The evening is free for packing and departure. Pune's airport and railway station are within 30 minutes of the centre by rickshaw. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Chaturshringi and is especially busy during Navratri. The climb to the temple is short but steep. The view from the top is a good way to end the trip. The temple is on a main road, so it is easy to reach by bus or rickshaw.