Bakarwadi, mastani and other Puneri snacks

Bakarwadi: a crisp spiral

Bakarwadi is a deep-fried snack made from gram flour, coconut, sesame seeds and spices, rolled into a crisp spiral. It is widely associated with the Chitale brand, which popularised it in the mid-20th century. The snack is sweet and savoury at once, with a satisfying crunch. Bakeries and sweet shops across Pune sell it, often in boxes for travel. It keeps well, making it a common gift for visitors leaving the city.

The origins of bakarwadi trace back to a family recipe refined by the Chitale family in the 1940s. The name comes from 'bakhar' (a type of flatbread) and 'wadi' (a savoury snack). Today, it is a staple at tea time. Many shops on FC Road and in Deccan Gymkhana stock fresh batches daily. The snack is also available in variations with added nuts or spices.

• Look for fresh bakarwadi at local sweet shops; avoid pre-packaged versions for best texture.
• Bakarwadi pairs well with a cup of chai, especially during the monsoon.
• Some shops offer a spicier version called 'khatta meetha bakarwadi'.

Mastani: a thick milkshake

Mastani is a thick milkshake made with ice cream, milk and fruit or dry fruits, often topped with nuts or chocolate syrup. It was created in the 1960s by a local restaurateur in the Camp area. The drink is named after Mastani, the wife of Peshwa Bajirao I, known for her beauty and strength. Mastani is served in tall glasses with a spoon, as it is too thick to drink through a straw.

The original version uses mango or banana, but modern variations include chocolate, strawberry and mixed fruit. Some shops add a scoop of ice cream on top for extra richness. Mastani is a popular summer treat, though it is available year-round. It is best enjoyed on FC Road or in Camp, where several old establishments serve it. The drink is a meal in itself, so order one to share.

• Mastani is not a milkshake you can drink on the go; sit down and eat it with a spoon.
• The mango mastani is the classic choice; try it in summer when mangoes are in season.
• Some places offer a sugar-free version for those watching their intake.

Misal pav: the spicy staple

Misal pav is a spicy curry made from sprouted moth beans (matki), topped with crunchy sev, onions, coriander and a squeeze of lemon. It is served with soft pav (bread rolls) and often a side of yogurt or a wedge of lemon. The dish originates from Maharashtra and has many regional variations. In Pune, misal is typically fiery, with a thin gravy that is meant to be slurped. It is a breakfast or lunch item, though many eat it any time of day.

The key to a good misal is the masala, a blend of spices that varies by shop. Some add coconut, others use dried shrimp. The topping of sev and farsan gives it texture. Misal pav is often eaten with a spoon, dipping the pav into the gravy. It is a filling meal, popular among students and office workers. The dish is widely available on FC Road and in Deccan, with many shops having loyal followings.

• Start with a small serving if you are not used to spicy food; misal can be very hot.
• Add a spoonful of yogurt to cool down the spice level.
• The best misal is often found at small, no-frills eateries, not fancy restaurants.

Vada pav: the street food icon

Vada pav is a deep-fried potato dumpling (vada) coated in gram flour batter, served in a pav bun with chutneys. It is often called the Indian burger. The vada is spiced with green chillies, ginger, garlic and turmeric. It is a cheap, portable snack that is sold everywhere in Pune, from street carts to small shops. The chutneys vary: dry garlic chutney, green chutney and tamarind chutney are common.

The dish originated in Mumbai but has become a Pune favourite. Local variations include adding a slice of raw onion or a sprinkle of sev. Vada pav is best eaten fresh, when the vada is still hot and crisp. It is a common snack during the monsoon, as the fried batter stays crunchy in the humidity. Many shops on FC Road and in Deccan serve it with a side of fried green chillies.

Shrewsbury biscuits

Shrewsbury biscuits are buttery, crumbly cookies that originated in the Camp area of Pune. They were introduced by British bakers in the 19th century and adapted to Indian tastes. The biscuits are made with flour, butter, sugar and eggs, sometimes flavoured with vanilla or cardamom. They have a soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture. Camp bakeries have been making them for generations, using the same recipes.

These biscuits are a popular tea-time snack and are often bought in tins as gifts. The original Shrewsbury biscuit is plain, but modern versions include chocolate chips, nuts or jam. They are not overly sweet, which makes them versatile. The best ones come from old bakeries in Camp, where the bakers still use traditional methods. Look for shops that bake fresh daily.

• Shrewsbury biscuits are best within a few days of baking; they lose their crumbly texture over time.
• The plain version is the classic; try it first before flavoured ones.
• Some bakeries offer a vegan version using margarine instead of butter.

Where to find them

The areas of Deccan Gymkhana and FC Road are the best places to sample these snacks. Deccan is home to many old sweet shops and bakeries that have been operating for decades. FC Road has a mix of street stalls and small eateries. Camp, though slightly farther, is the original home of Shrewsbury biscuits and mastani. The streets around the main market in Camp have several bakeries and juice bars.

For a self-guided food walk, start at Deccan Gymkhana in the morning for a misal pav breakfast. Walk down FC Road in the afternoon for vada pav and mastani. End in Camp for Shrewsbury biscuits and bakarwadi to take home. Most shops are open from morning until evening, though some close on Sundays. Check the local timings before you go.