Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum

What it is and its history

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum is a private collection turned public museum. It was founded by Dr Dinkar Gangadhar Kelkar, a businessman and collector who spent decades acquiring objects from across India. The museum opened in 1962 and moved to its current building in Shukrawar Peth in 1975. The building itself is designed to resemble a traditional Maharashtrian wada, with courtyards and verandas. This architectural choice reinforces the museum's focus on everyday life and craftsmanship.

The collection numbers over 20,000 items, though only a portion is on display at any time. Dr Kelkar's aim was to document the richness of Indian craftsmanship before modernisation made many objects obsolete. The museum is now run by a trust. It offers a glimpse into the everyday lives of past generations through the things they used. The objects range from the 18th to the early 20th century, with a few older pieces. The museum's layout encourages a chronological and thematic journey through India's material heritage.

• Dr Kelkar began collecting in his youth, starting with a single brass lamp.
• The museum building has five floors, each dedicated to different themes.
• Many objects were sourced from villages and small towns across India.

What to see

The museum is organised into themed galleries. The most celebrated section is the collection of over 500 oil lamps, known as the 'Deepamala'. These range from simple clay diyas to elaborate brass and bronze lamps shaped as trees, birds and human figures. Another highlight is the gallery of carved wooden doorways, some entire doorframes taken from old havelis and temples. These doorways display intricate carvings of deities, floral patterns and geometric designs.

Musical instruments fill several rooms, including sitars, tablas, veenas and folk instruments from various regions. There are also sections devoted to nutcrackers, locks and keys, betel-nut cutters, paan boxes, incense burners, and writing implements. The textiles gallery displays embroidered fabrics, costumes and religious banners. The collection of ivory and silver objects is kept in a separate locked gallery. Each gallery is densely packed, so take time to read the labels.

• The lamp gallery is the largest of its kind in India.
• Carved doorways come from Gujarat, Rajasthan and Maharashtra.
• The musical instrument gallery includes a rare 19th-century harmonium.

How to get there

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum is at 1378, Shukrawar Peth, near the intersection of Bajirao Road and Laxmi Road. It is about 1 km from the historic centre of the old city and 1.3 km from Swargate bus stand. From Pune Junction railway station, an auto-rickshaw takes about 15 minutes depending on traffic. The nearest metro station is Swargate on the Purple Line, about a 15-minute walk away. The walk passes through busy market streets, which can be an experience in itself.

If driving, parking is limited on the narrow streets of Shukrawar Peth. It is easier to park at a paid lot near Swargate and walk. Buses from Swargate or Shivajinagar stop on Laxmi Road; get off at the Shukrawar Peth stop and walk east. The museum is signposted from the main road. For those staying in Koregaon Park or Viman Nagar, an auto-rickshaw takes about 25 to 30 minutes. Plan for extra time during peak traffic hours.

When to go and how long to allow

The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, Tuesday to Sunday. It is closed on Mondays and public holidays. The best time to visit is in the cooler months from October to February. Mornings are quieter. Afternoons can be busy with school groups on weekdays. Avoid visiting during the monsoon if you dislike damp interiors; the museum is not air-conditioned. The building can feel stuffy in summer, so carry water.

A thorough visit takes two to three hours. The five floors are connected by stairs; there is no lift. Plan your route from the top floor downwards to save energy. The museum shop sells books and reproductions of the collection. Photography is allowed in most galleries without flash, but some sections restrict it. Check at the ticket counter. The museum's pace is leisurely, so you can linger over details.

Nearby sights

Shukrawar Peth is part of Pune's old city, close to several landmarks. Shaniwar Wada, the 18th-century Peshwa palace, is a 10-minute walk north-west. The Lal Mahal, associated with Shivaji's childhood, is nearby. The Pataleshwar caves, an 8th-century rock-cut temple, are a 15-minute walk south on Jangli Maharaj Road. The Tulshibaug market, a busy bazaar for textiles and household goods, is adjacent. These sites can be combined into a half-day walking tour.

Parvati Hill with its temple and panoramic views is about 2 km south-west. The Aga Khan Palace, where Mahatma Gandhi was imprisoned, is 4 km north-east, a short auto-rickshaw ride. For lunch or a break, the streets around the museum have many small eateries serving Puneri thali, misal pav and vada pav. The area is known for its Irani cafés and sweet shops. The museum's central location makes it a good starting point for exploring the Peths.

Practical tips

Dress modestly as the museum is in a traditional area. There is no dress code, but covering shoulders and knees is advisable. The museum has a cloakroom for bags. No food or drink is allowed inside the galleries. Shoes must be removed in the temple-like sections. The museum is wheelchair accessible only on the ground floor; upper floors require stairs. The narrow corridors can feel crowded on busy days.

Crowds are moderate on weekends and during school holidays. The museum can feel cramped in the narrow corridors. Photography without flash is permitted for personal use. Tripods and selfie sticks are not allowed. The museum staff are helpful and can provide guided tours in Marathi and English. Check the museum's website for special exhibitions and events. The museum also hosts occasional workshops on traditional crafts.