Bakeries and Irani cafés of Camp

The cantonment setting

Camp, the old cantonment area of Pune, grew around the British military station established in the early 19th century. Its wide avenues, bungalows and parade grounds were laid out for the army. The area attracted traders and communities from across India and beyond, including Iranians who set up cafés and bakeries. These establishments catered to a mixed clientele of soldiers, officers and local residents.

The Irani cafés, with their high ceilings, marble-topped tables and bentwood chairs, became social hubs. Bakeries supplied bread, cakes and the famous Shrewsbury biscuits, a legacy of British baking adapted to local tastes. The cantonment’s grid of streets, named after British officers and Indian cities, still forms the core of the area. Walking from MG Road to East Street, you pass several of these historic eateries, many unchanged in decades.

The Shrewsbury biscuit

The Shrewsbury biscuit is a crisp, buttery disc, lightly sweetened and often flavoured with cardamom or vanilla. Its origin lies in Shrewsbury, England, but the Pune version is distinct: thinner, crunchier and less sweet. It is sold loose or in tins, and locals buy it by the quarter-kilo. The biscuit’s texture comes from a high proportion of butter and a short baking time, which keeps it from becoming too hard.

Several bakeries in Camp have been making Shrewsbury biscuits for over a century. The recipe is a closely guarded secret, passed down through families. The biscuits pair well with tea or coffee and are also crumbled over ice cream or used in desserts. Some bakeries offer a chocolate-dipped version, though the plain one remains the classic. The biscuits are also a popular gift item, packed in distinctive red-and-white tins.

• Shrewsbury biscuits are available at most old bakeries in Camp.
• They are best eaten fresh; the texture softens after a few days.
• Some bakeries also sell a chocolate-dipped version.
• The biscuits are a popular gift item from Pune.

Bun maska and Irani chai

Bun maska is a soft, fluffy bread roll served with a slab of butter. It is eaten with Irani chai, a milky tea brewed with spices. The combination is a classic breakfast or evening snack in Camp’s Irani cafés. The bun is often split open and the butter inserted, then the whole thing is dipped into the chai. The butter melts slowly, coating the bread in a rich, savoury layer.

Irani chai is distinct from other Indian teas. It is slow-brewed, often with a mix of Assam and Darjeeling leaves, then sweetened and enriched with milk. Some cafés add a hint of cardamom or fennel. The chai is served in small cups, and refills are sometimes offered at no extra charge. The ritual of dunking the buttered bun into the hot tea is a local habit that visitors quickly adopt.

The café interiors

Irani cafés in Camp retain their old-world character. The walls are lined with large mirrors, often with painted floral borders or advertisements for long-gone products. Ceiling fans turn slowly above the tables. The floor is usually tiled in a geometric pattern, and the counter displays glass jars of biscuits and sweets. The furniture is solid wood, with marble tops that have been polished by decades of use.

The atmosphere is unhurried. Customers sit for long stretches, reading newspapers or chatting. The waiters, often in white uniforms, are efficient but not rushed. Many cafés also serve simple meals such as akuri (spiced scrambled eggs) on toast, vegetable cutlets and mutton samosas. The menu is short and unchanged, a point of pride for the owners. Some cafés have a separate section for families and women, a practice that dates from earlier times.

• Look for the old ceiling fans and vintage mirrors.
• The tiled floors often have a green and white chequerboard pattern.
• Many cafés display framed photographs of their founders.
• Some have a separate section for families and women.

Other baked goods

Beyond Shrewsbury biscuits, Camp bakeries produce a range of items. Bread loaves, dinner rolls, puff pastries and cakes are baked daily. The mawa cake, a dense, sweet cake made with reduced milk, is a local favourite. Some bakeries also make khari biscuits, a flaky, salty snack. These items are sold alongside the biscuits, and many customers buy a mix for home.

The bakeries operate on a traditional schedule. Dough is mixed in the early morning, and the first batch of bread emerges by dawn. The ovens are fired with wood or gas, and the aroma of fresh baking fills the streets. Many bakeries also supply to local restaurants and hotels. The demand for fresh bread remains steady, and the bakers keep to their routines even on holidays.

The social role of cafés

Irani cafés in Camp have long been meeting points. In the early 20th century, they were places where lawyers, journalists and political activists gathered. The cafés were among the few public spaces where people of different communities could sit together. This tradition continues today, with students, office workers and retirees sharing tables. The mix of conversations, from politics to cricket, adds to the lively but relaxed mood.

The cafés also serve as informal information exchanges. Regular customers know the staff by name, and news of the neighbourhood is passed over cups of chai. The slow pace of service encourages conversation. Some cafés have a back room where regulars play cards or chess. For a visitor, sitting quietly with a cup of chai and observing the rhythm of the place is a way to understand Pune’s social history.